Tuesday, December 12, 2006

My Ironing Board Solution

Several of the email groups I enjoy are having the at-least-once-a-year discussion on ironing boards and ironing surfaces. My solution came about after taking the QuiltUniversity.com Studio Makeover course with Myrna Giesbrecht. I made a storage island with four Closet Maid cabinets (bought on sale at Target). Then I went to a local woodworking company and had them cut a sheet of 3/4" thick MDF (medium density fiberboard, highly recommended in the Trading Spaces books). I wanted an overhang of about 2"-4".

The top of the surface is covered with cotton batting and canvas. I purchased both at Jo-Ann's with one of the great coupons they offer on a bi-weekly basis. The cover is stapled to the MDF.

When I first put the top on the cabinets it slid around a bit because of the smooth cabinet tops. I fixed that with several pieces of gridded shelf liner. No more slippage!

I have forgotten the exact cost of my island but by purchasing items on sale it was close to the cost of the popular commercial "big ironing boards". I use this as my cutting surface as well as for ironing. The height is perfect for me. I can press and cut without fatigue.

This lovely large surface is an attraction for all things quilting - scraps, fibers, cutting tools, marking tools, and, on a frequent basis, Miz Paws and Sargeant Top Gun. Yep, puppy paws as well as kitty paws! The only time it is as pristine as this photo is when I took the photo several years ago!

To see more photos of my studio makeover, please click here.

Thursday, December 07, 2006

Cards for "A Recovering American Soldier"

I received the following message from my Miniature Pinscher list this morning. I had made an extra holiday postcard for a swap I am in ... this seems like a good place to send it!

Please join me in honoring these brave men and women:

'm sure many of you are currently writing cards to friends and family. If you can, please send an extra one (or 10, or 20) to our American military heroes who are recuperating from wounds this Christmas Season. Please enclose a short note thanking them for their service and personal sacrifice. They are the protectors of our freedom, we must let them know. Your small act of kindness will be greatly appreciated.
Here's the address...

A Recovering American Soldier
c/o Walter Reed Army Medical Center
6900 Georgia Avenue, NW
Washington, DC 20307-5001

Sunday, December 03, 2006

This tutorial covers how to back a fabric postcard with heavy weight (140 lb) artist's paper, such as Strathmore Watercolor Cold Press. I do not cover how to design or create postcards as there are a number of excellent tutorials and books available on those subjects.

I began creating my textile postcards with a fabric back. They felt too floppy so I tried using Timtex . This made the cards too thick for my taste. I finally experimented with watercolor paper and have settled on that as my preferred photo backing method.

Materials Needed
Fabric postcard, quilted and embellished, with batting as desired
140 lb artist's watercolor paper such as Strathmore
Fusible web, such as Steam-A-Seam2
Applique pressing sheet, parchment paper or fusible release paper
Rotary cutter with paper blade (no longer used to cut fabric)
Steam Iron
Pressing cloth
Cutting mat, quilter's rule and rotary cutter
Sewing machine and thread.


When you create your fabric postcard make the design size at least 1/4" larger than the finished 4" x 6" standard postcard size. This allows space for the trimming you will do when adding the fusible.

I prefer to use Steam-A-Seam2 fusible for my postcards. I have used WonderUnder, MistyFuse, and liquid fusibles as well. While they are all excellent products, I find Steam-A-Seam2 best for applying the paper postcard back.

Cut the Steam-A-Seam about 1/4" larger than the postcard on all sides. Cover your ironing surface with a no-stick applique pressing sheet, parchment paper, or fusible release paper left over from another project. Place the Steam-A-Seam2 fusible side down on your postcard back and press for a few seconds with your iron. Let the postcard and backing cool completely before removing the backing. If the fusible separates from the postcard, press again for a few moments and make sure it is completely cooled before separating the release paper.

When the backing has been separated from the postcard, place the postcard fusible side down on a the artist's paper. Cut the watercolor paper about 1/2" larger than the postcard on all sizes. If using a small pad of watercolor paper, use the full sheet of paper.

Use a pressing cloth over the postcard when embellishments have been added. I press both sides of the card, fabric side first. Take care to press the card side for only a few seconds. If pressed with steam too long the paper can become warped. If this happens, place the postcard under a heavy book and let the card cool completely. Do not handle the card until it has cooled.

Using a rotary cutter with a paper blade (an old rotary cutter with a used or nicked fabric blade is great to keep on hand for this purpose) trim the postcard to 4" x 6" in size.

Depending on the design, I use either a sewn or fused binding. For this demonstration card, I used a sewn binding. Do not use a satin stitch for binding when you use a card backing. If you do the close stitching will cut the card and may cause it to fall out! For fused bindings, you can sew around the edge of the binding to secure it to the card if desired. I don't bother with the sewing ... I simply fuse.

When the card is completed, turn it over and add your name and date. Now it's ready to address and mail. I always use a regular letter rate stamp just in case the post office gets fussy.

I hope you have enjoyed this short tutorial on using heavy artist's watercolor paper to back your fabric and textile postcards. I welcome your comments!

Saturday, December 02, 2006

Welcome!

Thanks for coming along with me on my adventures in quilting and textile art!